Vega Sicilia vertical - 1987, 1996, 1997, 2012
Another legendary evening at Magnifico da Umberto
Evenings at the fine dining restaurant Magnifoco da Umberto are always legendary. Since we often do themed evenings there and Barolo usually plays the leading role, we turned our attention to the Spanish royal house this time. Vega Sicilia, the famously so called best red wines of Spain – known for their incredible longevity and elegance. Everything was tasted blind. After introducing the evening with a "light" Giacosa Barbaresco 2003 we sat down to busimess and after much wild speculation, the astonishing results:
1. Vega Sicilia 1987
In the nose incredibly lively and fresh. Fresh cherries, cedar needles, hay flowers, and heavy, dark blackberries. On the palate full of drive and tertiary fruit. The sour cherry acidity is unbelievable, as if it had been bottled yesterday, and yet polished. 38 years old, signs of aging practically zero! A powerhouse. The best and most complex. WOTN!
96/100
2. Vega Sicilia 1996
Playful, super elegant raspberry bouquet. Completely different from the others. One almost thinks of a Burgundy. Green melon notes give freshness. On the palate definitely at its peak, maybe a little past it. Polished tannins, very fine acidity, flamboyant and a totally playful opulence.
94/100
3. Vega Sicilia 1997
The nose is a strong mix of berries and 1–2 cherries. Along with a vegetal component of celery, which I often find in Tempranillo. Fine branches. The palate is also astonishingly young and intense. These wines feel like they live forever.
93/100
4. Vega Sicilia 2012
Still a very young, bulging bouquet that pushes loudly forward. Lots of blackberry, currant, and wood aromas. The palate is unruly and full of primary fruit. Strongly reminiscent of Sassicaia in profile. Needs a good 10 more years to develop its profile.
92/100
Every course was like a poem
Conclusion
The tasting fair was accompanied by a wonderful, complex 5-course winter menu and, as could only be expected, rounded off with a lovely G. Mascarello 1996 and Rinaldi Brunate 2019.
Life is beautiful!
Verticals are always to be tasted blind!
