Chionetti - Barolo Pianpolvere - 2021
Picture taken at Serralunga, Piemonte (IT)
Imagine you rent an Airbnb with a breathtaking view directly over Serralunga and the legendary vineyard Vigna Rionda. Then your host also happens to make Barolo himself, owns a Cru site in Bussia, and after tasting, you realize that you’ve probably just had the best Barolo from Monforte for your taste so far.
I’m talking about CHIONETTI.
But not so fast…
This family-run winery from Dogliani, already in its 5th generation and famous for its Dolcetto, has these over 60-year-old vines of the Cru Pianpolvere lying at 400m altitude in Bussia, facing south.
Nose
On the nose, you’re greeted by a mysterious, sexy perfume.
Noble woods à la cedar and pine and slightly earthy notes of fine Alba truffle aroma. The composition is carried by dried blackberries and figs. Absolutely fine and elegant. Unusually ethereal for Bussia. Already now. After some time, a slightly vegetal, pleasantly fresh note appears — probably because in 2021 the stems were used during maceration. Very exciting! I only know that from producers like Roagna, Cappellano and Burlotto.
Palate
On the palate, the tannins crackle fine and clear without being overbearing. Great structure, acidity, and tension.
The dried blackberry is there, but also some raspberries. Plus fine oolong tea.
When I think of Monforte, I usually think of melancholic Chopin études or heavy, powerful Bruckner symphonies. With Chionetti, I rather feel Vivaldi’s Autumn from The Four Seasons. I’m thrilled! Oh, and by the way, the vineyards are organic.
Rating
Bravo Nicola Chionetti and Martina! My personal wine discovery of the year!
