Brora 30 - Bottled 2010 - 54,3%
Picture taken at Bix Lounge in Stuttgart
It is with great joy that we present to you the first Brora review on Whisky Digest. Books and essays have been written about the history and the heritage of this (propapbly) most legendary whisky distillery. Perhaps it's interesting to mention that Diageo have recently reopened Brora, even if we're afraid that the prices of the new releases won't be really cheaper than the 'lost era' ones. So let's capture this rare moment and delve into the world of the Northern Highlands.
Nose
Comparing to the coming in of an orchestra, the first impression is a symphony of elegance and sophistication, but the pure manifestation of Brora's distillery character, too. Over three octaves, the bouquet plays to all our senses. The lowest octave is occupied by deeper notes of the finest wood oils and pipe tobacco, even gentle whiffs of cold cigarette ashes. On the middle octave, sweeter notes of honeycomb, wet hay in spring and vanilla pods set the base. The soprano is expressed with a wonderful waxiness and a freshness of sea spray and lemon oil splashes. In fact, malicious gossip could have it that this might also be an old Clynelish. But if Clyenlish would represent Schumann, this Brora is Bach (he who knows the difference will also understand that this can't be Beethoven either)
Palate
Bach indeed! The initial hit is just divine! Like in Kyrie from his B-Minor Mass, rich and sweet flavours of acacia honey, elderflowers, vanilla pastries, almonds and citrus oils are laping around the palate like an endless stream, flooding and waxing everything to a sea of silk. Dear officer, there is no sharpness, no off-flavours, no rush and no hurry to be found in here. Even after 30 years, there is zero bitterness and no traces of menthol. The second sip relveals the finest fudge (Fortnum & Mason quality) and another juicy wave of lime and lemon oil. It's not uber-complex, but you just don't want the flavours to stop...
Finish
...Blessedly the music doesn't even think to stop. Beeswax and strong elderflower tea, together with smoked lemons continue their sublime piece for hours.
Rating
What a masterpiece. If one may be allowed to theorize a little, those old Broras seem to represent THE essence of what is reachable with a fine distilling character, some inactive bourbon barrels and very long period of time. Whatever, such bottlings and style are long gone and out of reach. But finally, to quote Jens' truism from the BIX in Stuttgart: 'Everyone should have had a Brora on their tongue before they bite the dust.' Subsequently, life punishes those who delay.